South Fork of the Shenandoah River, VA
By Bruce Ingram
To say that the South Fork of the Shenandoah has experienced a checkered past would be something of an understatement. Just during this century, this northwestern Virginia waterway has endured several major fish kills, intermixed with bouts of outstanding smallmouth bass angling—which is the case currently. This time, however, the “Doah,” as its many fans affectionately call it, is well positioned for a sustainable high-quality fishery, with the last major fish kill already a decade in the rearview mirror.
Tommy Lawhorne, co-owner with Kevin Little of the South River Fly Shop, believes the river began its comeback in 2019 when more 12- and 13-inch smallies began appearing. By 2022, the South Fork started flaunting numerous 15- to-17-inchers and those fish metamorphosed into that cherished 18- to-21-inch range in 2023.
“Now, the South Fork is producing the type of smallmouth bass fishing that we have come to expect, although the number of fish that the river used to produce is not there, yet,” Lawhorne says. “I attribute a lot of the river’s comeback to the last two Shenandoah Riverkeepers, Jeff Kelbe and Mark Frondorf. They kept the public’s focus on the fish kills and talked and worked with people and businesses that could make a difference.
“The Riverkeepers also worked to exclude cattle from the river and decrease the amount of nutrients entering from the [area’s] poultry and cattle industries. The two of them conducted outreach to convince more farmers to create riparian zones, as well. Those buffers are so important in sucking up the runoff from agricultural water, which would otherwise go into the river. There are still some areas of concern, especially in the lower river where algae blooms occur during the summer in the slower, shallower sections. But there’s no question that the water quality is much improved, which goes hand in hand with the fishing becoming much better.”
Jason Hallacher, a district fisheries biologist for the Virginia Department of Wildlife Resources (DWR), believes spawning success has also played a role in the South Fork’s smallmouth rebound.
“We are incredibly fortunate to have consistent spawning success within the South Fork,” he says. “Even with the fish health problems we have experienced since the early 2000s, the population has always been able to rebound within a few short years. Recruitment is especially consistent within the upper and middle reaches of the South Fork. Consistent recruitment equals better catch rates for anglers, and that’s what we have been enjoying over the past few years.
“The lower South Fork below the Luray Dam is a different story. We have observed fewer young of the year during our fall sampling on a fairly regular basis since 2015. Spawning within this section hasn’t been a complete bust, but we are seeing lower adult catch rates within this section of river.”
Hallacher says that since 2021, the DWR has been carefully monitoring young-of-year smallmouth below Luray Dam during the summer months. A small percentage of young smallmouth have lesions and are experiencing some mortality during July, but biologists are uncertain at this point if this is having a population-level effect. Regardless, anglers should expect lower catch rates within this stretch of the river.
The most recent sampling took place in 2022 and was quite a challenge because of low, clear water. “Despite the conditions, our sample looked good. The smallmouth catch rate was dead on the long-term average at 115 fish per hour,” Hallacher says. “Twenty-five percent of the smallmouth captured were considered quality sized fish…over 11 inches. However, we observed quite a few big fish spooking before we could put them in the boat. Anglers should expect a great year of fishing on the South Fork, especially from Port Republic to the Luray Dam.”
Other Game Fish
Hallacker says that anglers interested in largemouth bass should target the deeper pools and impounded portions of the river. During the sampling excursions since 2017, catch rates have been very consistent, averaging 12 fish per hour. Although there are far fewer largemouth bass than smallmouth bass in the Shenandoah, the river produces lots of large fish. Nearly 80 percent of the fish sampled are above 12 inches with 40 percent breaking the 16-inch mark.
Moreover, if fly anglers want to joust with some true behemoths, the South Fork certainly can provide them. “The muskie population is stable, and the fish are big,” Hallacher says, adding that the agency planned fish sampling efforts for late last year. In advance of these recent surveys, biologists expected to see good numbers of fish between 38 and 45 inches with a few fish closing in on 50 inches. “We have been incredibly impressed with the length and weight of these fish over the past few seasons,” says Hallacher.
The South Fork’s muskie rely on stocking, and the DWR has worked hard to supplement the population on a more consistent basis, notes Hallacher. “Last year,” he continues, “we saw above-average numbers of young muskie, both during our winter muskie sampling as well as in the fall while [we were] smallmouth sampling. This is a great sign for the future of this fishery.”
The biologist further relates that, like the South Fork’s smallmouth population, the river’s redbreast sunfish population has seen its fair share of ups and downs over the years. Currently, the population looks healthy with great numbers of quality-size fish.
Additionally, Lawhorne proclaims that so many channel catfish fin the South Fork that his fly-fishing clients often tangle with one or two on any given trip. Hallacher says that the channel cat population is robust, and the numbers observed remain very consistent. The highest concentrations are found downstream of Luray Dam on the South Fork, as well as throughout the main stem Shenandoah.
Top Floats
Island Ford to Elkton (7 Miles): Lawhorne concentrates his guiding on the upper South Fork near his fly shop in Waynesboro. One of his favorite excursions in that area is Island Ford to Elkton.
“Island Ford offers great summer smallmouth habitat,” he says. “Deep pools with current and drop-offs, plus lots of riffles to wade fish. There are also some slower pools that offer largemouth bass and muskies if clients want to try some big flies.”
This getaway is one of my favorites, as well, on the entire Shenandoah with its fetching mix of riffles and Class I and II rapids. Other major features include several islands, two major rock bluffs, and numerous sycamore-covered outside bends.
Elkton to Shenandoah (7 Miles): Another outstanding getaway is Elkton to Shenandoah. “If you want to fish a section with lots of deep, rocky holes and with numerous riffles, runs, and moving water, then this is the one to try,” Lawhorne says. “The Elkton float is a favorite of our clients because of the very short shuttle and lots of great bank cover with sycamores, downed trees, and rocks. This is also a great float for popper fans. Summer days catching good-size smallmouths on top is what this trip is known for.”
Elkton boasts numerous riffles and Class Is, plus islands and water willow-covered islets with drop-offs below. Note that the backwaters of Shenandoah Dam form a power pool at the end of this trek. Paddle through this section unless you want to take a chance hurling huge flies for muskies.
Shenandoah to Grove Hill (8 Miles): The Shenandoah junket is a fine drift, Lawhorne says, if water levels are acceptable, meaning 600 to 1,000 cubic feet per second (cfs). If the levels linger at 400 to 500 cfs, low water may result in canoes and rafts dragging a little. As a whole, this trip features long, slow pools where largemouth bass predominate, but other sections offer Class Is, IIs, and riffles that brim with bronzebacks.
Newport to Alma (3 Miles): The Newport to Alma getaway is one of the most interesting floats in the entire Shenandoah watershed, muses Lawhorne.
“The Newport float is the kind of one where you could fish it for three or four hours after work and do extremely well,” he says. “Or you could take it slow and spend seven hours thoroughly working all the boulders, drop-offs, riffles, eddies, and bank cover. The habitat is so good that you could catch fish for an hour before you reach the first riffle.
“Another interesting thing about this trip is it offers one of the best places I know of to catch channel catfish on a fly. The cats are present in very good numbers.”
Another noteworthy aspect of the Newport float is the lack of major rapids, making it a good journey for families. A lone Class I rapid exists, although the numerous riffles assure that the water is well-aerated and smallies are active.
Alma to White House (6 Miles): The South Fork becomes noticeably wider by the time float fishers pass the Alma access point, and of note, says Lawhorne, is that both banks typically offer quality fishing in many places.“I like to work the outside bends, but on this trip in many places, you need to work both banks as well as those mid-river rocky drop-offs,” the guide says. “Some of the best mid-river spots are where an underwater ledge will come close to the surface, but this cover lies in water that is 6-feet deep. This trip has no major rapids, but it is filled with riffles.”
Port Republic to Island Ford (10 miles): The Port Republic access point is where the South Fork of the Shenandoah begins, and it is the longest float on the river. Lawhorne relates that he rarely takes clients on this excursion because of its length and because of the many dauntingly long pools. Nevertheless, the smallmouth action can be quite good in the runs below the many Class Is and riffles, and the junket has a reputation for producing big smallies. Just make sure you launch early in the morning, or you may find yourself paddling to the ramp in the dark.
Shenandoah State Park to Karo (5.5 Miles): Jared Mounts, whose family operates Jake’s Bait & Tackle in Winchester, favors the Shenandoah State Park junket. “This trip offers some really good wade fishing for fly fishers, especially in the state park area,” he says. “Using a Cade’s Cicada during the mid- to late-summer period is a really good way to experience surface action.”
Adding to the appeal, continues Mounts, are the numerous riffles and Class I rapids that make for easy paddling and superb smallmouth sport. Plenty of ledge/riffle-type habitat exists as well.
Seekford to Bentonville (11 Miles): The Seekford getaway is a long float, but it can be shortened to 8 miles if anglers opt to put in at Burners Bottom, which offers a steep, gravel put-in. Mounts says that excursion also hosts the major rapid on the lower South Fork, the Class II-plus Compton Rapid. Downstream from there is Golden Rocks, a massive and scenic limestone bluff. Mounts rates this trip as another one with wade fishing potential if paddlers want to beach their crafts. No other rapid on this float approaches Compton in intensity as Class Is and riffles predominate elsewhere.
Front Royal to Riverton (4 Miles): Finally, if long rodders are searching for a dandy morning or afternoon quick getaway, Mounts says they should consider the Front Royal float. Class Is and ledge/riffle habitat characterize this section; plus, wade fishing options are common.
Waynesboro as Base
Waynesboro makes for a convenient base for the upper South Fork. Dana Mares, who along with her husband, Scott, operates the Heritage Hill bed-and-breakfast in the town, says the area has many enticing options for visitors.
“All levels of hiking are possible,” she says. “The Blue Ridge Tunnel Trail is nearby, as are the Shenandoah National Park and Blue Ridge Parkway. The Waynesboro area offers wineries and breweries. And the Wayne Theatre has been refurbished and provides entertainment such as movies, plays, dancing groups, workshops, and poetry readings. Many people also enjoy visiting the P. Buckley Moss Gallery in town.”
My wife, Elaine, and I stayed at Heritage Hill and were impressed with the food and accommodations. Built in 1847, the building was repurposed as a B&B in 2018. The Mares raise chickens and bees, so eggs and honey find their way into numerous breakfast entrees. Be sure to ask for the scones, often made from seasonably available fruit, or any of the egg dishes, especially the quiches and shirred eggs.
If you come to fish in the morning, stop in at the French Press and grab some coffee or homemade biscuits as I did. Among the specialties are various soups, sandwiches, and pastries. Another fine eatery is Stella, Bella and Lucy’s, which serves breakfast and lunch and offers take-out. Homemade crab cakes and ice cream, as well as a variety of egg dishes are available.
For dinner one evening, Elaine and I dined at the River Burger Bar where I savored the Chicky Wrap (grilled chicken, cheddar cheese, and mixed greens) and my wife relished The Hipster (certified Angus beef patty topped with provolone). Other popular favorites include the restaurant’s The Fungi (mushroom-topped burger) and The Shiner (blackened burger with bleu cheese). A rotating list of draft beers is available, too. Yet another option is Delly Up, known for its hoagies, sandwiches, chicken salad, and craft beers.
Two Great Days
One of my favorite excursions on the South Fork is the drift from Island Ford to Elkton, so I was excited when Tommy Lawhorne and one of his top guides, John Waller, decided that was the trip we would be taking on a mid-July outing. But when we arrived at the ramp, we discovered that a local thunderstorm must have resulted in an upstream tributary sending a slug of muddy water our way.
So, predictably, we struggled to catch fish first thing that morning. I tried top-water patterns while Lawhorne and Waller alternated between paddling and fishing as well as trying a wide variety of surface and subsurface patterns. Finally, at midday, Waller devised what I consider an absolutely brilliant solution to the stained-water issue. He began casting a size 1 Tequeely fly under an indicator, and the pattern’s crystal chenille body appeared to give the smallmouths something to home in on. On a day that had been mostly fishless, Waller began consistently catching 10- to 14-inch bass. Frankly, though indicators are commonly used on trout streams, Eastern river smallmouth anglers, from my experience, rarely utilize this tactic.
“Stained water on rivers means finicky smallmouths and a tough bite,” Waller explained. “But the Tequeely provides some visibility, and the indicator gets the fly slightly off the bottom, which also helps the fish to see it better. I think the smallmouth take the Tequeely as a crawfish that has been dislodged.
“For the fly to work best, you have to have current and at least 3 feet of depth. Also, you have to constantly reset how far the pattern is below the indicator—which is probably why many river smallmouth anglers don’t try this tactic. The Tequeely is at its best when it is ticking up and down off the bottom.”
Following Waller’s advice, I caught my first smallmouth of the day on the Tequeely pattern, and I was thrilled to add something new to my stream smallmouth toolbox.
The next morning, the three of us took the Shenandoah-to-Grove Hill junket, and our spirits rose when we saw that the water was much clearer than the day before. The first mile-plus of this excursion consists of a long, slow pool, and I was glad when Waller quickly rowed us through this section. He explained that this Shenandoah drift segment features too much quality water to waste our time in deep, featureless pools.
Like the day before, Waller’s decision-making was logical, and we arrived in a prime riffle/run area while the light was still low and the morning bite had just begun. I caught a chunky 13-incher on a Double Barrel popper from a shaded run, and moments later, Lawhorne used the same pattern to take a 14-incher off the front end of a mid-river snag and another fine bass from the back end of the same wood structure. As Lawhorne noted: “Old wood always holds more fish than new wood.”
For the next several hours, we feasted on the classic Shenandoah summer top-water bite, adding further proof that the “Daughter of the Stars,” as the Native Americans called the river, was back to her old self. But by midday, we had to resort to the indicator rig to continue to take bass. I asked Lawhorne why the top-water bite often suddenly stops and starts on the South Fork.
“It could start because the damselfly and dragonfly hatches begin, or the annual cicadas start falling into the water, or maybe it becomes overcast,” Lawhorne explained. “Sometimes it stops when the sun gets high and there’s no cloud cover. Of course, then there are times when we have no idea why the fish start or stop feeding.”
About 1 p.m., clouds gathered, and the surface action simply exploded, and we all had bronzebacks slamming our poppers. Lawhorne did especially well, catching a dozen or more smallmouths in an hour’s time, four of them in that 13- to 15-inch range, which was traditional on the South Fork—and the new normal as well. It’s time to return to the South Fork of the Shenandoah.
Virginia-based Bruce Ingram is a longtime contributor to American Fly Fishing magazine.
Cade’s Cicada
Hook: Kona XSS, size 12
Thread: Ultra Thread 210
Body: 3 mm Hareline Fly Foam
Rattle: Hareline glass rattle
Wings: Clear/green Chocklett’s Gummy Wings
Legs: Chartreuse/black barred Sili Legs
South Fork Shenandoah River
NOTEBOOK
When: Summer months are prime; late spring and early fall are very good, too.
Where: Northwest VA in Shenandoah Valley.
Access: Best as a float fishery; numerous ramps suitable for launching canoes, kayaks, and rafts.
Headquarters: Waynesboro. Information: Waynesboro Tourism, (540) 942-6644, www.visitwaynesboro.com. Lodging: Heritage Hill B&B, (540) 471-8998, www.heritagehillbnb.com. Dining: The French Press, (540) 221-6568, www.facebook.com/thefrenchpressVA/; Stella, Bella and Lucy’s, (540) 949-5111, www.stellabellalucy.com; The River Burger Bar, (540) 943-3339, www.theriverburgerbar.com; Delly Up, (540) 943-3455, www.dellyup.com. Night life: Wayne Theatre, (540) 943-9999, www.waynetheatre.org
Appropriate gear: 9-ft., 7-wt. medium-fast rods, floating line, 9-ft. monofilament leaders, 2X or 3X tippets.
Useful fly patterns: Size 2 and 4 poppers in chartreuse, blue, and black; Double Barrel Popper, Boogle Bugs, Deer Hair Divers, Dahlberg Diver Frogs, CK Clawdad, Tequeely.
Necessary accessories: Polarized sunglasses, sunscreen, wading shoes, life jackets.
Nonresident license: $8/1 day, $21/5 days, $47/annual.
Fly shops/guides: South River Fly Shop, (540) 942-5566, www.southriverflyshop.com; Jake’s Bait and Tackle, (540) 723-4621, www.jakesbaitandtackle.com; Shenandoah River Outfitters, (540) 743-4159, www.shenandoah-river.com; Downriver Canoe Company, (540) 635-5526, www.downriver.com. Front Royal Outdoors, (800) 270-8808, www.frontroyaloutdoors.com. Ashby Gap Adventures, (540) 955-7179, www.ashbygapadventures.com.
Books/maps: The Shenandoah and Rappahannock Rivers Guide by Bruce Ingram, bruceingramoutdoors@gmail.com. Virginia Atlas & Gazetteer by DeLorme Mapping.
