Story and photos by Marc Fryt
Tucked up in Washington’s far northeast corner, just 10 miles from the Canadian border, Sullivan Creek is a 21st-century success story for anglers. Once constrained by an outdated dam on its middle section, the full length of the stream has been restored and now provides fly fishers with opportunities to hook numerous species of wild trout while enjoying the verdant beauty of the Selkirk Mountains.
In 1909, a dam was constructed on Sullivan Creek, creating Mill Pond. The stored water was sent downstream via a log flume almost 3 miles long to provide water for the Sullivan Creek powerhouse. In turn, this powerhouse supplied power to the Inland Portland Cement Company’s cement plant, as well as electricity to the town of Metaline Falls. By 1956, the powerhouse had fallen into disrepair and ceased providing power.
Through a collection of organizations, including American Whitewater and local tribes, the removal of the Mill Pond Dam was completed in 2017. Fully restored, the creek has opened miles of habitat and spawning grounds for fish, including bull trout that migrate up from the Pend Oreille River.
For the angler, Sullivan Creek can be divided into three sections totaling some 15 miles of fishable water. Upstream of the confluence with Outlet Creek, the upper section is a small, easy-to-wade mountain rill offering close-quarters casting with 2- and 3-weight rods for wild trout that average about 6 inches. They love dry flies, such as a size 16 Purple Haze, drifted around fallen logs and other prime spots.
Downstream of Outlet Creek, Sullivan Creek is more robust and holds larger trout. About 0.5 mile downstream from the confluence, the creek changes dramatically as it enters the floodplains of the historic Mill Pond area. While the upper section necessitates tight casting to avoid snagging trees, the middle section is open—you can let your back casts sail unimpeded. As the creek serpentines through open terrain, numerous log pilings and bends in the river contribute prime trout habitat. The water is generally clear during summer and fall, making it ideal for dry flies cast on a 4- or 5-weight rod. Top choices include the Elk Hair Caddis, Stimulator, and Schroeder’s Hopper. Beef up your tippet, because the logjam pools can hold large trout.
Once the creek surges between the cliffs of the old damsite, it enters Sullivan Creek Canyon, where, again, it changes character. Access along this section is more limited owing to the rugged terrain, but turnouts and a small campground along Sullivan Creek Road provide an entrance into the creek. With difficult access and technical pocket water, the canyon stretch of the lower section is a great place to find solitude while hooking into plenty of trout between the white-water expanses.
Sullivan Creek is home to westslope cutthroat, rainbow, brown, brook, and bull trout, as well as mountain whitefish. There are no nearby fly shops, but the towns of Metaline Falls and Metaline offer a handful of bars and restaurants, including The Farmhouse Café, (509) 446-2447. The area has plenty of camping options. The lower section has no-fee camping at Moon Flats, the middle section has Mill Pond Campground ($24 per night), which is an excellent spot to fish and trek around the open floodplain, and the upper section has numerous dispersed no-fee campsites. When camping, hiking, and wading, keep in mind that this is grizzly bear country, so carry bear spray and take food storage precautions at camp.
